Friday, February 14, 2014

A Little LOVE


Sharing a little love today on Valentine's Day 

I retired from the bridal gown arena a few years ago, but after working on this, well, what can I say? I'm addicted to weddings and really enjoyed creating this.

The bride brought me a cute knee length, cotton lace dress with a large exposed zipper down the back she had purchased from local Salt Lake shop, The Children's Hour.

From the little white dress to this elegant, simple gown via yards of silk chiffon...

Their beautiful wedding was a feature in the popular blog The Wedding Chicks and I thought it fun and appropriate for this day of LOVE.



 http://www.weddingchicks.com/2014/01/08/natural-and-simple-wedding/
photography: meredith carlson--  http://www.merephoto.com/blog/















Guess I've officially fallen of the wagon. There's no rehab for me.
Current Bridal Project:  my beautiful niece, Anna's gown. Ivory silk 4-ply crepe with a gorgeous champagne lace overlay. Can't show you yet as it would be a spoiler for the big day. Photos to come.

Enjoy - 
Janet

Wednesday, January 29, 2014

All Eights Are Not Created Equally





Ever go into the dressing room with several brands of the same size and have them all fit differently?
Did you think there was something 'wrong' with you? 
Well, there is certainly something wrong with the sizing of ready-to-wear clothing. There are standardized measurements for US clothing production but few companies use them. They are not mandated.
 Let me show you how crazy the US sizing for women's clothing is.
The chart below from the NY Times is really helpful in understanding the variance in measurements for a size '8'.



Just a few stats that stand out are a measurement for a Valentino garment with a waist of 29" to Delia's at a 27" - 2 inches difference. A waist measurement at H&M is 28.5" while at Chico's it is a 31. Really, that's a 2.5 inch difference! Now, I know H&M caters to a younger market than Chico's but a 2.5" difference is pretty substantial. It's enough to make you feel skinny at Chico's and fat at H&M all in the same shopping trip.

To make matters more complicated, many design houses have different sizes within the same company. Gap, Old Navy, and Banana Republic are all the same group but have very different sizing. A size 8 hip at Banana measures a size 2 at the Gap.  

Chalk this up to what the industry calls 'vanity sizing'. It stems out of our obsession to connect our size with our self esteem. Over the last 40 years or so, sizes have steadily become smaller as women have become larger. Yes, we are larger than we were in the 1950's.
The average woman in the US is now about 5'4" and weighs 155 lbs. We are about 20 pounds heavier than our 1950's counterparts. The average woman now, according to the ASTM (American Society for Testing Materials) size guidelines, should wear a size 16, but thanks to vanity sizing she is probably buying a size 10. 




I have been using vintage sewing patterns lately and have been astonished at the size differences between from the 50's and 60's to now. A bust size of 38 was then an 18, now a 38 bust is a ready to wear size 10. Patterns then were congruent with sizing in the stores. Pattens today do measure a larger size than retail clothing and are not in line with retail sizing. It can bring shock to the home sewer to see that she wears 2 sizes larger or so in a pattern than at the store.

Fashion sizes have been irregular for decades. A woman with a 32" bust would have worn a size 14 in 1937, by 1967 she would have worn a size 8 and currently, she would be a size 0. 

No wonder so many women are confused and feel stressed out by the number on the tag! 

File:EN-13402-dress.png
The UK has a standardized measurement system. This type of sizing diagram is printed on the label . Approximately a 35.5" bust, 29" waist and 38.5" hip.



So, what's a girl to do? Until the US falls in line with the UK and starts mandating measurements on all tags we will have to take matters (measuring tapes) into our own hands.

Measure yourself before you head out and then take a measuring tape with you to shop. Measure the key areas of the garment (bust, waist, hip) BEFORE taking them into the fitting room. 
(See my past post, How to Measure Up for more help on identifying your body type.) 
Concentrate on how that number matches up with the garments you want to buy not the # on the tag!

The more prepared you are before you buy, the more satisfied you will be with your purchases. Remember, you are the consumer, you are the one with the POWER! (but, don't let it go to your head )

Enjoy-
Janet

Tuesday, January 7, 2014

The Beauty of Pyrex





Beauty can take many forms. But today, I want to talk about the beauty of quality and practicality. I have been collecting Pyrex bowls lately. Not like a serious collector, but looking every time I go to the thrift store. My Mom received this set pictured above as a wedding gift in 1946 and I grew up using it. She still has and uses the large bowl. Really, how many daily use items are still around from 1946? These babies were made to last.  My collection started a few years ago with the little red one I found for a couple of dollars. I had seen sets for sale in antique stores and higher end consignment boutiques but didn't want to spend the collector price. Last month I finally snatched up a complete set for $15 at an estate sale and now I feel totally satisfied, well, at least until my next thrift store trip.



I've got several Pyrex pieces from different eras now and I love them all. Most of my other bowls have gone to the thrift store in favor of these gems. They are designed so well - the the best sizes and depths.

Woodland pattern bowl

Cinderella bowl in Butterfly Gold pattern

Spring Blossom 2 pattern small bowl

Snowflake pattern casserole dish

 One of my favorite new pieces is this casserole dish. I grew up using similar ones. So handy...oven to table to fridge!



There are many sites for the serious collector if you're interested in knowing the patterns and dates. One of the best is
   www.pyrexlove.com

I bought mine to use so I'm not too fussy with them but here are a few tips for caring for them:

 -hand wash - no dishwasher, it will dull the finish
 - if the finish is already a little dull, rub with a little vegetable oil 
 - use them! that's what they were made for


Enjoy - 
Janet

Thursday, December 19, 2013

Fun at Winnie's Workshop

Today I want to send a shout out to some really talented friends of mine - Nancy and Meredith at Winnie's Workshop in Midway, Utah. Nancy is an expert with Wool Felting and Meredith is a masterful letter press artist. They are hosting an open house TODAY at there place so if you're in the area, stop by and try your hand at these old world arts. You can also take a virtual visit on their website 




Cute things I've made from felted wool sweaters and 
needle felting-techniques I learned from Nancy
Available on the Plein Air Boutique on etsy:







Enjoy!
- Janet




Tuesday, December 10, 2013

Met to Exhibit Couturier Charles James





If you are looking for a reason to visit New York this summer, this is it. The Metropolitan Museum has just finished renovating their Costume Institute and this is their opening exhibit. I'm mentioning it now so you can drop hints to those searching for the perfect Christmas gift for you. 

Charles James: Beyond Fashion

May 8–August 10, 2014

Charles James: Beyond Fashion

Anglo-American couturier, Charles James (1906-1978) is best known for his sculptural, mathematical approach to design, especially elegant ball gowns. Without formal training and amidst a very turbulent career (including bankruptcy and IRS forced closure), James became one of the most influential designers of the 20th century. Collaborating with many now famous fashion designers and icons throughout his career, he sadly died from pneumonia - alone and penniless at the Chelsea Hotel in 1978.

From the Met's exhibition info. -

The first-floor special exhibition galleries will spotlight the glamour and resplendent 

architecture of James's ball gowns from the 1930s through 1950s with an elegant tableau 

celebrating such renowned clients of his as Austine Hearst, Millicent Rogers, and 

Dominique de Menil. The New Costume Institute's Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch Gallery will 

provide the technology and flexibility to dramatize James's biography via archival pieces 

including sketches, pattern pieces, swatches, ephemera, and partially completed works 

from his last studio in New York City's Chelsea Hotel. 


Charles-James-hero.jpg

Photograph by Cecil Beaton. Published in Vogue, March 1, 1948


Charles James, ca. 1950.

Charles James and models, 1950


The Swan by Charles James

One of James' notable gowns, 'The Swan'


So, save a little cash in reserve from the holidays toward a NYC summer trip to see masterful haute couture from one of the finest.

- Janet













Wednesday, December 4, 2013

A Little Christmas Sparkle





In response to our first real winter snow, I thought I'd share a little DIY project that can bring that snowy sparkle indoors. This one takes little time, money, or effort...the best kind of project this time of year!

Shimmering Branches

Here's what you"ll need:

  branches
  Epsom salt
  school glue
  foam brush
  plastic cup
  large baking sheet
  parchment paper or any liner you have
  aerosol hairspray




Water down the glue until it is thick enough to stay on your brush but not gloppy. Line your baking pan with paper. Pour out about a cup of Epsom salt on the paper. Lay your branch on the pan and brush with glue.
To make it realistic, apply the glue heavier in crevices where snow would collect. Sprinkle salt wherever there is glue. Tap off excess. Epsom salts are water soluble so they melt a little when they come in contact with the glue. I love this because it behaves like real snow and melts a bit into the branch. If you want a little more sparkle, sprinkle fine glitter on as well. 
When dry, spray with hairspray. These are only for indoor use as the salts will melt.

                               
               

Voila! Snow covered branches! I paired mine with some cuttings from a pine tree. They look pretty alone as a centerpiece but if you use sturdy enough branches, they will hold ornaments.





Discard the salts on the pan by folding up the paper. Save the rest of them in the bag and soak your feet after a long day of shopping!

Enjoy!

- Janet





Tuesday, November 26, 2013

Silver, Mums, and Gratitude





Growing up, Thanksgiving at my house was pretty close to Norman Rockwell's depiction. Grateful for family, food and love. While my mom's Parker House rolls baked, I remember having two jobs -arranging mums cut from the backyard into a centerpiece and polishing the silver. Among the items needing a little TLC was this lovely pair of Empire style salt and pepper shakers. Aren't they beautiful! They belong to me now as part of my mom's very smart practice of giving items from our childhood to us as gifts. They mean so much more than any store bought present! 

So, today as I'm polishing the silver in preparation for Thanksgiving Dinner that I'll be hosting, I thought maybe it would be timely to post a bit on silver care. so...


Some tips on silver care from me and Tiffany’s:
(Can't argue with Tiffany's -the authority on all things beautiful)

Sterling silver tarnishes, especially when exposed to salt air and products containing sulfur, such as rubber bands and some papers. However, silver that is regularly used typically needs less care, so Tiffany strongly encourages you to use or your silver frequently and so do I. The notion of ‘saving’ items is kind of sad to me. What is so special in the future that could be more important than enjoying your beautiful things now?

Washing Silver

Tiffany recommends washing silver by hand in warm water with a mild detergent. Because many food acids and gases in the air can have a corrosive effect, they suggest that you wash your silver immediately after use. Silverware, and especially knives, should not be left to soak in water. To avoid spotting, it is important to dry your silver immediately after washing. 


Polishing Silver


 Tiffany sells a spray that works great on items with small crevices like candlesticks



Pastes like Wright's or Weiman are good for large areas
                   
                                                                                                                      photo from for the love of a house.blogspot

Use a good paste silver cleaner. I like Wright's silver cream but lately I've only been able to find Weiman.  The spray from Tiffany is great, too. Some "dip" polishes contain harsh chemicals and should be avoided. Some people say to use Electrolytic cleaning (aluminum foil, salt and baking soda in a water base) I don't recommended it. 

Begin by using a soft cloth or sponge to apply the polish. Rub each piece gently but firmly lengthwise, using straight, even strokes. You may use a small brush (like a toothbrush with natural bristles) for decorative trim or borders. Wash in sudsy dish soap water, being sure to remove all the polish. Rinse well in warm water, dry thoroughly and buff gently with a soft cloth. Don’t twist, especially items with stems. I learned this the hard way, twisting a stem loose from a compote dish. So sad.

Leaving a Little Patina

An "oxidized" finish is the deliberate blackening of crevices in the ornamentation of a silver object to make its decorative details stand out more clearly. Take care as this finish can be removed by overzealous cleaning and polishing.  A little tarnish is actually patina and can denote age and value.


Happy Thanksgiving - Use all your 'good stuff' and leave some of it out to enjoy all year!

- Janet